Mount Huber

After another 4:30AM start we reached Wiwaxy Gap in the half-light and began making our way across the Huber Ledges.

Huber Ledges in Winter


Plenty of cairns, even a few bolts on a steep pitch, but we didn't bother with the rope. The general guideline here was up and left, rinse, repeat, until we hit the lower glacier.

Brian on the Huber Ledges


We put the rope on to cross the lower glacier to a rock band, scrambled over the rock band, and then put the crampons back on for the upper glacier. It was a cold morning and our crampons hardly scratched the surface of the snow that still lay in the shadow of Mount Victoria. Across the glacier we went and into the sun at the Huber-Victoria col.

Huber-Victoria Col


From the col the guide books ("Suspected" and "11,000ers") describe two routes to the summit, one far left and one far right, but the beaten track basically split the difference right up the middle so this was the obvious way to go.

Huber route seen from Victoria


Once above the 'schrund we dispensed with the rope and made our way up the steep snow slope to the ridge.

Ross on the Ridge


On the ridge proper the softening snow gave way to hard ice with the change in aspect. Another 50 metres or so of careful steps and we met up with a guided group on the summit by 9:30AM.

On top


We lounged around in the sun and took in magnificent views all around before retracing our steps back down the ridge, belaying this time to keep the fun factor high on the icy ridge.

Brian at the anchor


Back across the two glaciers, across the rock band, and down through the Huber Ledges with a rappel at the one steep pitch.

Huber Ledges


It all seems so uneventful as I write this up! But once again a wonderful day in the mountains on one of the classic 11,000 foot peaks of the Rockies.